If you’re a regular buyer of "cuttings" from PUKUBOOK SUCCULENTS, maybe you’ve already noticed: starting about two weeks ago, the cuttings we’ve been shipping have a totally different level of plumpness and moisture. They’re so turgid you’d think they’d just been freshly snipped!

This is all thanks to a brand new method, perfected through years of independent research here at PUKUBOOK, for making cuttings firm and hydrated in mere seconds.

And guess what? Instead of patenting it and keeping it to ourselves... we’re sharing it openly with everyone! We’re also updating our advice for caring for cuttings based on this new knowledge. I hope you’ll give it a try.

Background

Until now, most cuttings imported from overseas would arrive dehydrated and wrinkled after their long journey. Of course, these tired plants need time to recover their strength, making it hard to judge when to water or expect roots, and that can be stressful.

But with this new method, the cuttings bounce back—good as new—even before planting! Roots form faster, plus the plants can handle delays in rooting much better. Even if they wrinkle again waiting for roots, you can revive them using this very technique. Honestly, you could probably leave them soaking like this until they root.

It’s the stuff of dreams for succulent fans!

The Secret? Just Soak Them in Water

Yup, the secret is simply to soak them in water.

I know, all that buildup for something so basic—sorry if it’s anticlimactic (sweat emoji). But it’s so simple, it’s actually kind of amazing, right?

Here’s what you do: just scatter the cuttings cut-side-down in a shallow tray filled with water. You could submerge them in a fuller bucket, but it’s safer—and lets light and air circulate—if you only add enough water so the cut ends barely touch the surface (about 0.5-1 cm deep).

^ A quick note: speaking of soaking, I once wondered if I should use a treatment bath for newly-arrived plants. But in most cases, exporters are already doing that for you before shipping. So, you probably don’t need to repeat it yourself.

In some cases, you’ll see results in just one day! In my trial, the cuttings sitting in a tray with water plumped up noticeably compared to those in a dry tray next to them. And if you touch them, the difference is even clearer: rehydrated cuttings are firm all the way to their outer leaves.

Here’s the surprising part: most of these juicy succulents had not even sprouted any roots yet! So yes—they’re absorbing water without roots. I’ve written before that “plants won’t take up water until fuzzy new root hairs appear,” but apparently that needs revisiting! Maybe there are invisible roots at play, but not ones you can spot.

I haven’t tested every succulent yet, but Echeverias, Crassulas, Haworthia—all sorts seem to respond well. Especially “Haworthia,” which can send out fresh white roots in just a few days of soaking.

Of course, timing matters too. We still can’t promise this will work in the hottest summer or coldest winter, during dormancy—but then, that’s never a good season to propagate cuttings anyway! We’re not trying to overturn basic plant wisdom (though I’ll test it come the right season!).

Possibly this is common knowledge in the industry, and I’m late to the party? (If so, why was everyone keeping it hush-hush?!) In fact, some resources do already recommend the soaking method for rooting.

The New Way to Care for Succulent Cuttings

So, forget what you thought you knew—here’s the new, improved step-by-step care for cuttings:

1. Let cut ends dry for 2–3 days after cutting.
2. Remove all dried/dehydrated or mushy lower leaves (since mushiness can spread quickly).
3. Arrange cuttings cut-side-down in a clean tray.
4. Flood the tray with enough water to barely reach the cut surfaces (0.5–1 cm).
5. Place in a spot with good airflow and bright indirect light or partial shade.
6. Change the water every 2–3 days (daily is best, if you can).
7. Once roots appear, transplant into clean, fresh soil.

I’ve written the ideal about changing the water, but honestly, even if you forget, it’ll probably be fine (the shallow water will just evaporate after a few days if the spot’s well-ventilated). The main thing is to avoid letting the plants rot. Instead of fussing over the water schedule, keep an eye on root and leaf condition.

There Are Risks, Though

It’s not all upside: soaking means high humidity and the risk of rot, and a few cuttings did “jure” (become mushy) on me. So, be sure to remove any damaged leaves right down to the base before soaking, and as a precaution, always let newly cut or cleaned plants dry for at least a day before placing them in water. You could also alternate—soak for two days, then let dry for two days, and so on.

By the way, whether soaking or using the traditional soil method, never trust anyone who says "You can plant cuttings immediately after cutting!" Let them dry for at least one full day first. More than personal anecdote, my repeated experiments have shown that planting freshly cut stems increases the risk of turning to mush by 10–50% (unless your soil is thoroughly sterilized, in which case you might get lucky). If it works for you without rotting, that’s a fluke! Of course, if you know the risk and want to skip the wait, that’s your call (smile).

In Summary

All that said, this new method is based on a quick trial during an ideal time of year—it’s a "breaking news" tip, not a universal truth! It might all be pure chance. Even widely shared methods online or in books may or may not work in your conditions, so don’t swallow anything whole—just experiment and see for yourself. That’s how you’ll discover what works for you. If this article helps you do that, I’m happy!