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PUKUBOOK Succulent picture book

2023.7.28 Showing All My Failures!—A Real-Life Ranking of Succulents Weak to Heat

Sending you warm wishes for summer. We're right in the middle of the season that is toughest for succulents. Last time, I put together an article summarizing symptoms and solutions by summer trouble type, but this time I’ll share—based on my own experiences—which succulents are most prone to summer troubles, ranked from most to least!

Please note, there may well be other varieties even more susceptible to heat, but this ranking just reflects my own household results. And of course, there are species I haven’t kept at home yet!

Let’s dive in!

1st: Lenore Dean

Echeveria 'Lenore Dean'

I won’t deny I’m a bit biased. Because it’s expensive! And yet, every year, despite the price, this one just can’t seem to make it through summer at my house. Variegated Echeverias with thin leaves are fragile in general, but Lenore Dean feels especially delicate. Prices for 'Crispe Beauty' have leveled out recently, but its “senpai,” Lenore Dean, still commands a high price—maybe in part because it’s so prone to damage (Crispe is nearly indestructible and multiplies easily, so I expect it’ll be much more affordable by next year).

What I’ve learned is: at least at my place, the main reasons Lenore Dean fails in summer seem to be "lack of sunlight" and "lack of water". If I keep the plant airy (to prevent rot), give it a good soak, and let it get enough sun, it stays healthy. Indoor setups with strong LED lighting also work great. Ultimately, being overly protective "just because it's summer" does more harm than good. Realizing this is actually what inspired my previous column.

多肉植物にとって最も過酷な季節「夏」がやってきました。SNSでもいろんな被害報告が連日上がっていて、我が家でももちろんい...

2nd: Agavoides

Echeveria agavoides

Echeveria in general tends to be weak against heat, but Agavoides stands out as being especially sensitive. The main issue is rot caused by poor airflow, aka “jelly rot.” So, strictly speaking, it’s not so much the heat, but this vulnerability to stuffiness—symptoms can show up as early as May or June. That said, since the cause is mainly muggy air, lower old leaves and place in a breezy spot—this really helps it survive. Also, avoiding deep shade even in mid-summer (and letting it get at least some sun for a little while) seems to keep it healthier.

ふといつものように多肉畑に目をやると、お気に入りのあのコが突然きれいな半透明ゼリーに……。じゃない。これダメなやつ。な...

3rd: Cante & Afterglow

Echeveria cante
Echeveria 'Afterglow'

For a long time I thought these two couldn’t handle summer, but it turns out I was wrong. Their thick white powder actually serves as sun protection, so they’re built to withstand strong direct light. In fact, the reason they failed before was mainly "not enough water." If you water deeply and regularly, they’ll take even scorching summer sun in stride.

4th: Aeonium

Aeonium 'Wrinkled Leaf Fairy Ink'

Aeoniums in general aren’t fond of summer. They often drop all their leaves early in the season, leaving bare stems. But sometimes (though occasionally they do die from rot) this is actually just dormancy. If you notice the leaves shriveling, move the plant to well-ventilated semi-shade and let it rest—it should bounce back and start growing again in the fall.

…disappointing appearance during Aeonium's summer dormancy

For more on Aeoniums, including seasonal changes, check out the dedicated feature article.

この時期のSNSタイムラインを眺めていると「屋内に退避だ!」とか「不織布被せて完全防備!」とか多肉植物は観賞するのを諦め...

5th: Sempervivum

Sempervivum 'Bernstein'

Sempervivums also struggle in the heat. They’re actually highland plants! But here's the trick: if you pull up and “rest” about half your Sempervivums during summer, getting them through isn’t too difficult.

多肉植物の育て方を調べてみると夏越しはたいていこんなふうに書いてあります。 - 高温多湿は避けましょう - 雨が当たらない...

6th: Cacti (Gymnocalycium)

Gymnocalycium mihanovichii var.friedrichi
Gymnocalycium mihanovichii var.friedrichi f.variegata

Most cacti are quite heat-tolerant, but glossy green types like Agavoides—and Gymnocalycium—are surprisingly sensitive. Their main problem is heat stress from direct sunlight, so I move them to spots with softer, indirect light that stay a bit cooler—like semi-shade. Cacti grow slowly, so even with less sun, they won’t get “leggy” right away.

Gymnocalycium “Kyu-mon-ryu” On the outside, it just looks a bit wrinkled from thirst… but when I checked underneath, the inside was completely rotten!

7th: Agave

Agave utahensis

Agave species are usually pretty tough when it comes to heat. But if you overwater and water collects between the leaves, rot can set in easily. For me, Agave utahensis seems especially weak—no matter how many times I try, I lose about half every summer.

8th: Haworthia

Haworthia obutusa

Despite their appearance, Haworthia are actually very tolerant of heat—at least at my house, I’ve never lost one to high temperatures. They’re sensitive to stale air, though, and will die in as early as May if kept stuffy. But if you keep the air flowing, even heavy summer rains aren’t a problem. They’ll handle direct sun, too, though they’ll turn reddish-brown and shrivel, which isn’t ideal for show plants…

9th: Dyckia

Dyckia milagrensis

Dyckia are practically invincible to both heat and cold, never changing their appearance no matter the season. Admittedly, I only have a few, so maybe I’ve just picked particularly tough ones.

10th: Kalanchoe

Kalanchoe behalensis 'Fang'

“Fuzzy leaves are for heat protection”—and Kalanchoe absolutely prove it with their enduring strength. I’ve never seen a Kalanchoe die from heat, no matter the variety. If anything, I’ve only lost them from completely forgetting about them under the eaves, letting them dry up on purpose…

[Side Note] My Growing Environment vs. Yours

By the way, when I talk about "my house," here’s what my succulent environment looks like:

- Fantastic sunlight and airflow
- About half of the succulent area is shaded by an awning in summer (about 80% shade), and the position of the shade changes through the day.
- There's a fence on the south side, so that area gets little to no direct sun in the heat of the day.
- Succulents weak to heat are moved under the eaves (protected from both sun and rain); the rest get full sun and rain.
- I plant in mostly akadama—superbly fast-draining and holds very little water.
- Greenhouse? What’s that? (Never used one!)

"Well-drained soil" is the real key. People often ask me how often to water succulents, but it depends entirely on your soil. In my case, the "recommended" watering frequencies just aren’t enough; I can water every day in high summer with no problem.

Honestly, the more professional you get with succulents, the more your answer to “How should I grow these?” becomes “Depends on your home's environment!” Copying someone else’s soil mix or pots won’t guarantee success at home. Finding the best setup for your own growing conditions is the true path to preventing problems—and to becoming a better grower.

Summary

If you see a photo here, it’s because I really did mess up with each one at some point. I may sound like I know what I’m talking about, but… I really don’t! (And for the record, even the pros make lots of mistakes! (Secret tip: Visit a nursery this time of year—there will always be a few plants struggling among the thousands there… But honestly, the fact that they keep it to just a few is actually amazing.))

Learn what you can, try to prevent issues—but if you fail, don’t sweat it! Just pick yourself up and try again! That’s the spirit.

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