Did you know? The very first botanical garden we featured here in the PUKUBOOK column was the recently introduced Shinjuku Gyoen. Even though it was our debut, we started with somewhere unfamiliar—an 'away' game, so to speak, and my first time there too! But when I think about it, shouldn't I be showcasing my local go-to spot—the botanical garden that's practically my own backyard? That's why I've decided to finally introduce the Kyoto Botanical Garden, a place I've visited so often it genuinely feels like home.
We’ve also introduced Koishikawa Botanical Garden, recognized as Japan’s oldest, but this one—opened in 1924 (Taisho 13)—holds the title of “Japan’s oldest public botanical garden.” It’s a place with a rich history all its own.
The site, once flat shrine and farmland at the heart of the Kyoto Basin, is broad and level, with walking paths tracing their way through woods of tall trees. Along the way, you’ll stumble upon seasonal flowers planted here and there. You’ll find that there are hardly any long, wide-open views or wide paths, so as you stroll through what feels like endless woods, you’ll suddenly break into a new area, much like exploring levels in a video game—it's got a distinct, almost playful feeling.
On this day, the hydrangeas and roses were both at their peak.
The greenhouse here is said to be one of the largest in Japan—a beautiful, modern building with sweeping curves and elegant lines. Constructed in 1992, it's been around for 30 years, so it’s a seasoned veteran of the facility, but still relatively new by the garden’s long historical standards.
Our beloved succulents mainly reside in the Desert/Savanna Room (and, little secret, if you go straight towards the toilets after entering, you can slip in directly from the savanna room). That said, both the entrance jungle area and the exit orchids and bromeliads section are brimming with fascinating plant life and worth checking out.
Let’s take a quick look at some of the succulents you’ll meet in this greenhouse.
Yes, there’s a café in the garden where you can eat and drink, but it tends to get quite busy at lunchtime. You’re welcome to bring your own bento, and you can leave and re-enter the garden during your visit, so I recommend picking up takeout from a local shop. I’ll share some of my favorite places at the end of this article.
If you’re coming with kids, definitely stop by the playground area next to the greenhouse—it’s been a lifesaver for me on family outings. There’s even a giant mushroom at the back, packed full of books that you’re free to browse at your leisure.
There’s a dramatic poster inside the garden saying “Books donated by Bill Gates,” and if you check it out, you’ll find a display case with a few books. It seemed a little over-the-top for just a handful of books, and if you can’t read them, what’s the point? Turns out, the story’s a bit different...
Apparently, these books were found suddenly placed one day in the outdoor library (the one with free access and, anyway, nobody really manages taking out the books). The rumor started: “Was it really Bill Gates himself? Sneaking in?” (To be fair, if a famous celebrity walked in, people would probably notice right away!) It’s said that Bill Gates does this little 'prank' of quietly donating books at free libraries all over the world, but here in Japan, Kyoto is the only place he’s left his mark. Maybe there’s a special connection?
At the northern gate of the Kyoto Botanical Garden, there’s a subway station, making it super easy if you’re coming by train. This area is one of Kyoto’s top upscale neighborhoods, with beautiful streetscapes and stylish shops—a perfect setting for a leisurely stroll. In Tokyo terms, people might compare it to Aoyama or Daikanyama.
Malebranche is always a feast for the eyes with uniquely designed cakes, making it our family’s go-to souvenir spot after trips to Kyoto Botanical Garden.
Head out the south gate of the Kyoto Botanical Garden, and you’ll find the area of Kitaoji. There’s parking here, so if you’re coming by car, this is your best bet. The “Kyoto Prefectural Kamogawa Park” stretches along the Kamo River, offering a sweeping expanse of green.
Right beside the garden, the broad, straight-flowing Kamo River lies. The scenery created by the river and the circle of low mountains around the city is classic Kyoto, so if you have time, be sure to check out this spot.
This day, I had lunch at "Grill & Coffee Hasegawa," a Western-style restaurant just across the Kamo River—a popular place, so be prepared for long lines (I waited about 50 minutes...). Since they also offer takeout, next time I plan to bring my bento over to the garden's grassy area and have a picnic! (laughs)
I live in Osaka—technically, but I’m very close to Kyoto, so this garden is actually the nearest one to my home. Ever since starting PUKUBOOK, I've been grateful for all the visits here, and now I'm finally able to introduce it properly. Kyoto is world-famous as a tourist destination, of course, but if you’re in the area, I highly recommend adding this beautiful garden to your list of sights.
If you’re driving around the area, I also suggest making the trip (a little farther out) to visit "The Farm UNIVERSAL."
There are still so many other botanical spots in Kansai I want to share with you—so stay tuned!
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